623-428-7462

Interior concrete floor coating

The slab under the carpet, ground and coated into the finished floor.

You pulled up the carpet, or you are about to, and under it is a gray slab with tack strip holes around the edges and old glue in patches. If the room is on the ground floor of the house, that slab can be the floor. We grind it back to clean concrete, lay a solid epoxy color or a metallic finish, and seal it with a polyaspartic clear top coat. The room is out of use for two days, and you can walk on it 24 hours after we finish.

What a floor inside the house goes through

A floor in a living space does not bake the way a garage floor does, but it wears in its own ways. Desert grit comes in on shoes and paws and works like sandpaper in the paths people walk every day. Chair legs scrape the same spots at the table, and a dog’s claws scratch where it turns at the back door.

Sun through a west facing slider lands on the same strip of floor every afternoon, and straight epoxy ambers and chalks in sunlight. That is why the clear coat over the color is polyaspartic, which is UV stable and holds its color, rather than more epoxy.

What is already on the slab matters as much as what the room will see. Carpet glue, the thinset left behind by tile, paint, and old sealers all leave something between the concrete and anything laid over it. A coating grips whatever it sits on, so a coating over glue is only as stuck as the glue is. The base coat has to land on bare, ground concrete, which means all of it comes off first. What has to come up, and how, gets settled at the quote visit, once Jayson has seen what is on your slab.

A ground floor slab also sits on soil, and moisture moves up through concrete from underneath. Carpet lets that moisture pass without showing it. A coating seals the top of the slab, so moisture coming up pushes against the coating instead, and that shows as blisters and patches that lift.

How we coat an interior floor

The work is the same system we put in a garage. What differs is the edge, since the floor runs into walls, cabinets and doorways instead of a garage door.

  • We grind the whole slab with a diamond grinder and vacuum it, so the base coat lands on open concrete and not on glue, paint or dust.
  • We fill cracks before anything goes down, priced as an add-on on your quote. A solid color or a metallic finish has no flake to hide a crack, so an open crack shows through.
  • We cut the coating in along the walls and at each doorway, where the floor stops and the next room starts.
  • We lay the epoxy base coat in your color. For a metallic floor, the metallic is moved through the wet epoxy by hand, which is where its swirls come from, and it brings in a second installer.
  • We leave the floor to hold for 24 hours. The base coat has to set up hard before anything goes over it, or the top coat traps what is still curing underneath.
  • We come back and roll on the polyaspartic clear coat, which is the layer that takes the foot traffic and the sun from the windows.

This work stays on the ground floor because of the grinder: it does not go up a staircase. The hold is why an interior floor is a two day install, the same as a garage.

Pure epoxy or metallic in a room you live in

There is one system, and what changes from one floor to the next is the finish. For a room you live in, two of them suit it. Pure epoxy with no flake is one solid color from wall to wall, and it reads as a finished floor under a rug and furniture. Metallic has movement in it, like poured stone or marble, and no two metallic floors come out the same, because the pattern is made by hand while the epoxy is wet. Metallic and marble finishes cost more than the others, because they bring in a second installer.

The two flake finishes still suit some rooms. A full flake broadcast or a light broadcast gives the floor texture underfoot and hides small marks, which fits a mudroom, a home gym, or the room between the garage and the kitchen. If the room is a workshop rather than a living space, read about shop floor coating, where full flake is the finish we point people to. Look at the metallic and flake colors before the quote visit, and picture them in the light of the room they are going in.

What it costs and what to expect

We price by the square foot, always. A bigger room costs more, and so do crack filling, a metallic or marble finish, or an old coating that has to be ground off before the new one goes down. Jayson comes out, measures the rooms and gives you the price in person, and you pick your color and book the install date at the same visit. That is also when he sees the edges, the doorways and whatever is still on the slab. Financing is available through Affirm if you would rather spread the cost.

For two days the room is out of use, and so is any path through it, so plan how the house gets from one end to the other. Jayson is on every job, and the installers who start your floor are the ones who finish it. Both coats smell while they cure, so open the windows and run a fan pulling air out of the room, and keep kids and pets out until the floor takes feet.

What we put in writing about the floor is the written warranty, in its own words. A garage or patio done at the same time goes on the same quote, priced by its own footage, like everything else we do.

Get your estimate

Tell us where the slab is and roughly how big. We come back with a blend, a system and a price.

A guess is fine, or just "two car garage". We measure it at the visit.

Next, we come out, measure the slab and give you the price in person.

Can you coat a second floor or an upstairs room?

No. Interior work is ground floor rooms only, where the slab under the house is the floor. The diamond grinder we prep every slab with does not go up a staircase, and without the grind the base coat has nothing to hold on to. The same limit applies to stairs: we coat entry steps and garage steps, but not a staircase up to another floor. If you are planning a whole house, the ground floor rooms can go on one quote.

Can you put epoxy over tile?

A coating is only as good as what it is stuck to. Over tile, it would be stuck to the glaze on top of the tile, and the tile is stuck to the slab with thinset, so the coating would be two bonds away from the concrete. The grout lines also show through. Our system goes on ground concrete, so the tile and the thinset under it have to come up first. Tell Jayson what is on the floor now when you book the quote visit, and he will go through what has to come up and how it gets done.

Will the house smell during the install?

Yes, for the two days. Both the epoxy base coat and the polyaspartic top coat give off a smell while they cure, and in a room inside the house you notice it more than you would in a garage. Fresh air is what clears it: open the windows in that room and run a fan pulling air out of the house rather than into the next room. Keep kids and pets out of the room and off the floor until it takes feet. If anyone in the house is sensitive to smells, plan those two days somewhere else.

What does a metallic epoxy floor look like?

A metallic floor has depth and movement, a little like poured stone or marble. Metallic pigment is mixed into the epoxy and moved around by hand while it is wet, so the pattern is made on your floor and no two floors come out alike. The polyaspartic clear coat goes over it like any of our floors. Metallic costs more than the other finishes because it brings in a second installer. The color chart shows the metallic colors to start from.